As Canada’s most notorious food critic, Chris Nuttall-Smith carefully guards his anonymity – but it can be hard when your picture is hung in the kitchen
Late one Monday evening in the fall of 1998, AA Gill, food critic for the Sunday Times, dropped in on Gordon Ramsay’s newly opened restaurant on London’s Royal Hospital Road. The previous year, when Ramsay was the head chef at a different restaurant, Aubergine, Gill had slammed him in the Times; the menu, Gill wrote, was “tasteless and embarrassing”, the restaurant “utterly forgettable”. Ramsay had not forgotten. Before Gill placed his order, Ramsay himself left the kitchen to say hello – and goodbye. Gill wasn’t to dine there that evening. Ramsay kicked him out.
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