Roger Hickman’s Restaurant: review | Jay Rayner

After several invitations, Jay finally makes it to a fancy place in Norwich. But he’s in no mood for small talk

Roger Hickman’s Restaurant, 79 Upper St Giles Street, Norwich (01603 633522). Lunch for two, including drinks and service: £125

In an episode of The Trip, Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon’s picaresque journey around the Lake District doing my job, Coogan opines that restaurant reviewing is a funny old business; that eventually you find yourself far from home, sitting in front of a bowl of orange soup trying to think of something to say. And now here I am, sitting gloomily before a bowl of orange soup desperately trying to think of something to say. But say something I must.