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Pachamama, London W1: ‘Unlikely to trouble the Deliciously Ella brigade’ – restaurant review

The chicharrónes may well be the poster meat for unhealthy living, but they’re heavenly

As a firm believer in gut feelings, it galls me to be proved wrong. When “Peruvian-inspired” Pachamama landed in Marylebone, I took flight at the recorded message that went sing-songily something like “Ola! Mama can’t come to the phone right now. Call us back! Besos!” Shuddering, I crossed it off the list. (The fact that it had taken over the subterranean premises of bizarre and awful “central Asian” restaurant Samarqand didn’t help.)

But then a fellow restaurant fan dragged me along, not long after Pachamama’s Adam Rawson won the Young British Foodies 2015 award for best chef. The YBFs have a talent for star-spotting, and after a set lunch that had us both going, “Wow. Oh wow”, it was clear my gut instincts were malfunctioning.

Related: Bellita and Aron’s Jewish Delicatessen, Bristol – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin

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