Au Pied de Cochon: restaurant review

From nose to tail, there is no part of the pig that the great Au Pied de Cochon doesn’t turn into a pure porcine delight

Au Pied de Cochon, 6 Rue Coquilliere, Paris (00 33 1 4013 7700). Meal for two,
including drinks and service: £70-£100

In the healing process, Paris always has had a head start: a deep well of self-belief. New York has its hard-boiled myths and clichés, but still has a shared memory of the 70s when the city almost went bust and Time Square was a place for junkies and retail sex. Some New Yorkers wonder how much it would take to go back there; others pine for it. Londoners gripe about a frail, creaking transport system that cannot cope. They look up at carelessly authorised skyscrapers and down at the gentrification of once shabbier corners and wonder what the city they try to love is becoming.

I am lost in admiration for those who first looked at a pig’s snout and made something so edible