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Shuang Shuang: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

A conveyor belt, personal stock pots, lists of equipment… Eating at Shuang Shuang is like an exam in cooking

Shuang Shuang, 64 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1. No bookings. Meal
for two, including drinks and service: £70-£120

Do not go to Shuang Shuang if you’ve had a couple of drinks. Do not go if you’re on the sort of medication that prohibits operating light machinery. Do not go if you find Ikea instructions for assembling flat-pack furniture irritating, if you have a budget and a minimal grasp of maths, or a low tolerance for salty foods. Certainly do not go if you thought the point of eating out was that somebody else should do the cooking for you, or if you wear glasses but only for reading (we’ll get to that one). It comes down to this: if you find things that complicate life unnecessarily annoying, do not go. Otherwise pop along to Shuang Shuang and have a fabulous time. I just won’t be there with you.

I stick a chilli-dipped finger in my eye. Now I’m juggling seven different bits of equipment while blind

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