Not one for queuing up, Jay Rayner made an exception for Soho’s newest Sri Lankan place – and was rewarded for his patience
Hoppers, 49 Frith Street, London W1. No bookings. Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60
I don’t like queuing. I don’t like queuing behind members of my own family to use the bathroom in my own house, let alone behind 14 sweet-natured, patient young people who don’t think standing in line for 45 minutes to eat dinner is bizarre. I am not sweet-natured. I am definitely not patient. Hence I have found the rise of non-reservation restaurants extremely tiresome. Time is precious. I’m getting old. I might be dead soon. I want to know where I’m going to be and when.
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