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The Flitch of Bacon: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

It’s in the name but not on the menu… which is a disaster if you are Jay. But luckily the rest of the menu is excellent

The Flitch of Bacon, Little Dunmow, Essex (01371 821 660). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £120

The Flitch of Bacon, a whitewashed lump of a pub near Bishop’s Stortford in Essex, is like some great joke without a punch line. The word “bacon” is in its name. It should surely be bacon central. They should have a bacon tasting menu: of dry cure and wet cure, of smoked and not, of maple glazed and peppered, of slabs of salty gammon, or hunks of those fabulous bacon rib joints that have loitered in a sugar syrup for three days that Hannan Meats of Northern Ireland do. It should be bacon-central, bacon-tastic, the capital city of planet bacon. Yes, I know it sounds like I’m just trying to turn myself on. (And, frankly, succeeding. I work at home, alone, at my desk. Don’t judge me.) But this is a brilliant idea.

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