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Native: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

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This restaurant says it’s all about foraged foods. It isn’t, says Jay, but that doesn’t matter as the cooking at Native is excellent

Native, 3 Neal’s Yard, London WC2 (020 3638 8214). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £80

Native is a sweet little restaurant with an irritating mission statement attached. Its shtick: wild foods. That’s foraged foods, that can only be obtained courtesy of a hearty commitment to Wellington boots and mud. It’s anything that isn’t available off the shelf. This is both based on a false premise and offers a false promise.

The website reads like some random, hug-a-tree, squeeze-a-ferret, grease-an-otter slogan generator

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