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Tapas 37: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

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From the alarm to the locked loo, few things went right for Jay at Tapas 37, but he was left with only one regret…

Tapas 37, 37 Ecclestone Square, London SW1V 1PB (020 3489 1000). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £120

Ten minutes into our lunch at Tapas 37, the new restaurant inside the Ecclestone Square Hotel in London’s Pimlico, the fire alarm went off. It was a vast hacking noise like a goose with bronchitis. Our sweet, eager waitress ran down the narrow dining room flapping her hands while bellowing “It’s just a test” and rolling her eyes with a theatrical shrug, as if to say “What can you do?” Some might wonder why a hotel which has invested money in a new restaurant, including hiring a chef with some big restaurant action on his CV, would then schedule a fire alarm test for the lunch service. Personally, I can’t help but fantasise about how much better a day it would have been for all involved, had the fire alarm been real.

It wobbled as I carved. It was too much fat for me, and that’s the first time I have typed those words in that order

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