Would I be so forgiving in a designer joint in Mayfair? Of course not. But I also know where I’d rather be
The approach to this, one of Wales’s most recently celebrated restaurants, does not whisper, “Here be fleshpots”: there’s rather a lot of grey pebbledash. The countryside is lovely, and if – as we do – you arrive via the Snowdonia national park, it’s all snow-sugared-top mountains and patchwork-quilt fields. The Isle of Anglesey is blessed with ravishing beaches and sunsets. But our destination? A caravan site off an undistinguished byroad.
My motto has always been “Will travel for food”, but the Marram Grass Cafe looks somewhat, um, unpolished – and I’ve chowed down in my fair share of tin-roofed shacks. It’s no looker. A cheery leaflet at the door says something like, “Why not make a night of it and book into one of the caravans?” Oh sure: and why not trepan my own head while I’m at it?
Related: Pharmacy 2: ‘The food isn’t really the point at this Damien Hirst revival’ – restaurant review
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