U.P. at Dominique Ansel Kitchen: restaurant review

Seven courses of puddings from the man who brought us the Cronut? If only it had been as sweet as that sounds

U.P. at Dominique Ansel Kitchen, 137 Seventh Avenue South, New York (dominique anselkitchen.com). Tasting menu for two with drinks, $270

A friend of mine, a big wheel in the food side of the high-street coffee-shop business, has a simple theory about the products she sells. “People generally only buy cake for one of two reasons,” she told me. “Because they’re happy and because they’re sad. It’s an entirely emotional purchase.” I suspect the vast majority of people who have bought Dominique Ansel’s products in New York have done so because they were happy. You’d have to be, to justify standing in line for the 45 minutes required to purchase one of them.

The waffle was dark and slightly bitter as, by this time, was I