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Forget expensive restaurants. The best meals are had with people you love | Jean Hannah Edelstein

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Yes, Michelin starred food can be cheap. That’s because a lot more than money goes into great dining

To call oneself a “foodie” has become an important marker of self-regard among a certain kind of person for the last ten years or so, and nowhere is this more the case in New York, where transcendental dining experiences are available around every corner – at least, available if you can pay for them, and if you’re willing to stand in the line that is wrapping around the corner.

The news that Tim Ho Wan, the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant, will soon open an outpost in Manhattan will be music to the ears of many of these self-anointed foodies. And why not: there’s no doubt that increasing the accessibility of delicious cuisine is a positive thing. But I’m still unconvinced that it will be a reason to spend precious minutes of life queueing.

Related: Eric Ripert: the Buddhist Michelin star chef who changed my life

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