It’s a stunning room and deserves something grand. Instead the Criterion has been lumped with overpriced food
Savini at Criterion, 224 Piccadilly, London W1J 9HP (020 7930 1459). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £200
The Criterion on London’s Piccadilly Circus is a space in search of a decent restaurant. Until recently it was owned by a bunch of Georgian businessmen who insisted not long ago that I correct my assertion on this page that it had gone out of business, until suddenly it was no longer trading. The kitchen burned sauces and served langoustine without first scooping out the poo. Before that Marco Pierre White had it, and did his thrillingly mediocre take on chicken Kiev.
It is, I think, a contender for both worst and most overpriced dessert in London
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