The special fish dish at the Sichuan is a masterpiece. But beware, says Jay, it’s not for those who are shy of chilli
The Sichuan, 14 City Road, London EC1Y 2AA (020 7588 5489). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £75
Some communal restaurant dishes are more communal than others. Most of the time we thrill to the novelty of something served as it would be at home – oh look! A chicken! – take our share, and then retreat back to that emotional place labelled “mine!”
This isn’t a dish you eat so much as explore. It’s an edible rock pool. It’s a moment…
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