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The Garden House Inn, Durham: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

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Korean pork belly, Anglo-Indian lamb, lobster sandwiches… Jay relishes big flavours and huge portions in Durham

The Garden House Inn, Framwellgate, Peth, Durham DH1 4NQ (0191 386 3395). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £70

On the pavement outside Durham’s Garden House Inn is a blackboard sign. It reads: “Food now being served.” It’s a very quiet way by which to announce the noisy, muscular, sometimes thrilling cooking to be found inside this pub just outside the city centre. God knows the people of Durham need to be made aware of it. I found out about the things going on in there courtesy of the rather brilliant Secret Diner, the restaurant critic for the Newcastle-based Journal newspaper.

Nobody leaves complaining about portion size. This is Durham. They do things properly here

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