Theo Randall is the master of faux peasant food that’s fit for a king. But, says Jay, his latest venture could cost him his crown
Theo’s Simple Italian, 34-44 Barkstone Gardens, London SW5 0EW (020 7370 9130). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110
Lunch at Theo’s Simple Italian is like my eyesight in middle age: it fails slowly. It started out fine. It started out encouragingly, full of sunshine and possibility, but bit by bit that early promise gave way to doubts, furrowed brows and eventually proper irritation and peevishness. But those lay at the end, not here at the start, where everything is a ball of sweet, untested potential.
Theo Randall’s fish stew was always a thing of wonder. Here, it’s a shadow of the original dish
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