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Santo Remedio, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Does expertise or flavour make the best Mexican dish? No matter – this Shoreditch restaurant is high on both

22 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3DY. Mostly no reservations, except for large parties who can book online (santoremedio.co.uk). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60

All too often in the food world, the war of expertise becomes a lumbering battle between the Real Thing and the Good Stuff. The Real Thingers have knowledge and experience on their side. They’ve eaten dishes in their place of origin, when you have not. By contrast, all the Good Stuffers have is enthusiasm. They don’t care whether these Korean chicken wings are as they would be in downtown Seoul. All that matters is that they taste good. Imagine the naked wrestling scene between Oliver Reed and Alan Bates in the movie Women in Love. Only with the combatants arguing over the correct use of quinoa.

Imagine the naked wrestling scene in Women in Love. Only with the combatants arguing over the correct use of quinoa

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