The stables at Cliveden are now a new grill. But the prices are so high, you’ll have to be an Astor to enjoy it
The Astor Grill at Cliveden House, Taplow, Berkshire SL6 0JF (01628 607 107). Meal for two, including wine and service: £160-£195
Mediocrity is often, by its nature, hard to spot. The mediocre doesn’t yell for attention. Mediocrity doesn’t tap dance into the limelight for fear of tripping over. At the Astor Grill, the more laid back dining option at Cliveden House in Berkshire, mediocrity presented itself on the edge of the saucer holding my cup of mint tea. It was a wrapped biscotti, sealed inside garish plastic packaging.
Venison sausage rolls turn up as small curls of butter pastry, around a meaty cylinder
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