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Chriskitch Hoxton: restaurant review

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The gleaming interior is matched by the seriousness of the cooking in chef Chris Honor’s ambitious new venue

Chriskitch Hoxton, 5 Hoxton Market, London N1 6HG (020 7033 6666). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £120

The first time I went to one of chef Christian Honor’s restaurants it was for salad. It says much about those salads that the journey, a quest to match anything Frodo Baggins ever embarked upon, did not feel wasted. It takes guts and an encyclopaedic knowledge of London’s public transport system to travel from Brixton to Muswell Hill. In the rain. There was no end to my suffering. And yet, for his three-bean salad with a dressing spun through with the soft, earthy breath of cinnamon, or his avocado and almonds, it was worth it.

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