The wooden seats at Clipstone may be unforgivingly hard, but the food is so superbly good you won’t notice
Clipstone, 5 Clipstone Street, London W1W 6BB (020 7637 0871). Meal for two including drinks and service: £80-£120
Among the readers of these reviews is a group of men preoccupied with their own arses. This is not abuse. I’m being literal. Each week they find the column online, ignore the glittering prose and study the seating arrangements, so as to comment on whether they could manage two hours on the chairs. It doesn’t matter whether I describe food with the delicacy of an angel’s teardrop, or glorious indulgences worthy of being denoted the eighth, ninth and 10th deadly sins. If the chairs look too hard, it’s a fatal black mark. They aren’t interested.
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