A pop-up Thai has parlayed itself into a full-blown restaurant. It’s popular, noisy and the food has quite a kick
Som Saa, 43a Commercial Street, London E1 6BD (020 7324 7790). Limited bookings for four or more. Meal for two including drinks and service: £75-£120
You join me in the smallest room in the house as I sit contemplating one of the biggest pieces of grit in life’s pearly oyster, which is to say consequences. For if my job has taught me anything, it is this: certain ingredients can deliver as much of a kick coming out as they did going in. A few years back one of my so-called rivals concluded a review of an especially spicy Sichuan place with the instruction to put the wet wipes in the fridge overnight. I am wishing now that I had recalled the advice a good 12 hours earlier.
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