Small, intimate and refreshingly affordable, Umezushi is a hidden gem. But now Jay’s gone and told us all…
Umezushi, Unit 4, Mirabel Street, Manchester M3 1PJ (0871 811 8877). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £40-£110
At times the dedicated restaurant-goer must behave like an intelligence analyst; must become the George Smiley of the table, forever sifting through drifts of information in search of reliable leads. You must filter out the blurring white noise of those who are paid to hustle through the agency of free meals. You must weigh the knowledge for chronic ignorance or plain stupidity or both. Use of words like “mouth” and “watering” are a giveaway.
The wakame has a huge savoury-sour whack from the festering place on the beach where sea meets sand
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