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Next time you moan about the cost of a meal, think about who’s slaving in the kitchens | Jay Rayner

There are people getting rich from restaurants – but it’s usually venture capitalists

An email arrives from a young, discouraged restaurant cook who has recently parted company with her employers. It had been her dream job; the kind of serious kitchen in rural England to which she had long aspired. There was a contract, giving her 40 hours a week on minimum wage. No, she wouldn’t get rich, but she would be doing something she loved.She would be learning on the job. Then the rota turned up: 60 hours a week. With no extra pay. For her labours she would be getting below the minimum wage. She took it up with her bosses. Ach, they said. Standard industry practice. She pointed out it was illegal. Now she is looking for another job.

While she showed me various documents to back up her claims, it speaks volumes that she wouldn’t go on the record. She wants to continue working in the industry and fears being blackballed. She may be very wise. Figures released last month showed that of 700 firms named and shamed by HMRC for paying below the minimum wage since 2014, only three have been prosecuted.

Related: Too few chefs: how a staffing crisis could change what we eat

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