Jikoni, London W1: ‘The shepherd’s pie on steroids I’d happily inhale through a tube’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin

Ravinder Bhogal’s first restaurant proper is a cockle-warming place to sink into

When I say that Ravinder Bhogal’s new restaurant is immensely girly, I’m not being reductive, honest. It’s so pretty, from its peach-blush exterior with wicker chairs and colourful cushions that look as if they was donated by a particularly stylish auntie; the place is a charmer. Jikoni’s website says they “celebrate the legacy of the many maternal figures who shared their kitchen”, so we get a cockle-warming place to sink into and dream, perhaps, of soft, embracing, motherly bosoms scented with cinnamon and vanilla.

Bhogal herself is far from matronly. In her open kitchen, she’s as chic and beautiful as her surroundings. A TV regular, appearing with everyone from our own Jay Rayner to Big Sweary Gordon, her book, Cook In Boots, featured headings such as Fork Me, Spoon Me: The Food Of Love And Rude Food. Post a number of “residencies” in the likes of Hix and Trishna (which is right next door; I’m not sure whether this is chumminess or chutzpah), Jikoni is her first restaurant. Pot plants and mismatched lampshades made from jewel-coloured saris and handmade Indian tablecloths notwithstanding, the girliest element is the food, which is light years from the usual Brit curry machismo. It’s not pretending to be traditional or authentic; it is, apparently, “inspired by our rich heritage, our travels and by London”, which explains outbreaks of Ovaltine and shepherd’s pie.

Related: Bronte, London WC2: ‘It doesn’t know whether it’s in Bangkok or Beirut, nor does it much care’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin