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Foley’s: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

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Foley’s is all about shouty flavours and having a good time – the only problem is that Jay doesn’t do ‘enforced jollity’

Foley’s, 23 Foley Street, London W1W 6DU (0203 137 1302). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £70-£100

At the start of our meal at Foley’s our waitress fixed us with a big, cheery grin and announced that the restaurant served “beautiful food. You will love it.” Oh dear. If there’s one way to guarantee I’ll hate something, it’s by telling me I’m going to love it. Don’t you dare tell me what to feel before I’ve felt it. Don’t you dare try to force me to have a good time. I don’t do enforced jollity. It is, as we know, always hate that springs most eternal.

Cauliflower has had a good time in the flames, before being dumped on tzatziki, smeared with relish and pelted with nuts

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