The Welsh town is famous for its Edwardian elegance and grand seafront. But for Jay the real delight is this hidden gem…
Jaya, 36 Church Walks, Llandudno LL30 2HN (01492 818 198). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £70
They are playing bridge in the ballroom of the Imperial Hotel, Llandudno. Outside, early autumn winds tease the sea into peaks the colour of tarnished silver and the road along the front is slicked from the showers just passed. Inside, all is spades over hearts, winning tricks and the ballad of minor suits. They come here every year, these bridge players, and fill their days with rubber after rubber. The hotel smells of furniture polish and this morning’s breakfast buffet and, most of all, certainty. It is not just the building which is solid and redoubtable. Here, life itself feels that way.
From the specials there are lamb chops, marinated in their own lime pickle, which is all brilliant fire and acidity
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