Farmacy, London W2: ‘I pray I never eat here again’ – restaurant review

This glittering, plant-filled restaurant from Camilla Fayed, daughter of Mohammed Al, is in the centre of clean eating’s spiritual home

On entering Farmacy in Westbourne Grove, I immediately feel as though I have shrunk and swollen into the incarnation of Roz, my fugly avatar on Twitter. The whole place is populated by creatures of luminous beauty, long and slender of limb, glowing of skin, sheeny-shiny of hair. Here they are, the disciples of “clean eating”.

The clean-eating trend (cult? epidemic?) is spawning temples of worship like kombucha spores. Deliciously Ella with her Mae “delis” (although she has now, in a slightly panicky way, distanced herself from the word “clean”); M Raw, “London’s first 100% gluten-free fine dining restaurant”; Vita Mojo, which promises to “put you in control of your diet”; the Detox Kitchen; Rawligion; and too many more.

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