From your table at the Jetty in Dorset you can almost see your dinner swimming in the harbour
Harbour Hotel, Christchurch, Dorset BH23 3NT (01202 400 950). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £120
In a world of polarised opinions, we often forget that it’s possible to hold two thoughts in your head at the same time. A few weeks ago I wrote adoringly of Riley’s Fish Shack, a steampunk eatery on the beach at Tynemouth where the brilliant, cheap food came in thin wooden boxes, the seats were uncomfortable and a stiff easterly wind off the sea could delay service. I declared undying love.
The soufflé seems to rise and then sigh as the hot blackcurrant sauce goes in – and so do we
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