Temper, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

Smoke gets in your eyes at Temper, but it’s the sumptuous rendered meat that will make you weep

Temper, 25 Broadwick Street, London W1F 0DF (020 3879 3834). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £100

After dinner at Temper I slept with the smell of dinner in my hair. I stank of wood smoke, rendered animal and testosterone. That’s what restaurants with big, manly smoke pits are like. They leave their mark on your nostrils and your hair and your psyche. I was derailed by the noise and the flames and the beards. Oh, those beards!