Guardian revelation that kitchen aristocrat paid staff less than minimum wage has brought issue of service charges to the fore
Michel Roux Jr, born into chef aristocracy and trained under his father, Albert, and his uncle Michel, has a sense of dynasty – its entitlements, its myopias, its burdens, its scars – that is palpable in almost all he says.
“I knew it was going to be interesting working for my father and uncle,” he once told the Financial Times. “It was more difficult for me than for other youngsters, because I had a point to prove.”
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