The Crown, Burchetts Green, Berkshire: ‘A family affair’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin

Paterfamilias Simon Bonwick is in the kitchen, while several of his nine children – yes, nine, and all as smilingly scrubbed as Von Trapps – work the room

We’re pootling along winter-sun-dappled roads overhung with ancient trees, their limbs drooping leaves of ochre and butterscotch and vermilion. It could be another century, one where I’ll be tucking headscarf under chin for a postprandial along Honey Lane to admire the unchanging countryside.

Our destination could also be from another century: a former pub in the village of Burchetts Green, notable for its bunting-clad infant school, agricultural college and… well, that’s about it. The Crown is family-run – but what a family. Exuberantly barnetted paterfamilias Simon Bonwick is alone in the kitchen, while several of his nine children – yes, nine, and all as perfectly presented and smilingly scrubbed as Von Trapps – work the room. The eldest (Dean, I think) laughs, “No, we’re never short of staff.”

Related: Frog And Scot, Deal, Kent: ‘The lack of pretension is as bracing as a dive into the British briny’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin