Polished, self-satisfied and overpriced, Aquavit is a proper Nordic noir thriller but for all the wrong reasons
Aquavit, 1 Carlton Street, London SW1Y 4QQ (020 7024 9848). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £150
Earlier this year I interviewed the New York-based chef Marcus Samuelsson about his London venture, due to open next spring. He promised not to stride into the capital like some conquering hero. This, he said, would be a “humble journey”. This is a sentiment we can all get behind. It doesn’t seem to be one shared by Aquavit, the Swedish-inspired restaurant also from New York where it happens that Samuelsson – Ethiopian born but adopted by a Swedish couple – first made his name. The award-garlanded Aquavit has now opened in London. And, oh boy, check out that swagger.
The fish is profoundly, indecently, lovely. I find myself wanting only to dab it in the mustard and dill sauce
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