Tandoor Chop House, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

There’s no sign of any flock wallpaper, but this concept-heavy clubby new Indian should concentrate on the food

Tandoor Chop House, 8 Adelaide Street, London WC2N 4HZ (020 3096 0359). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110

High up the wall at the Tandoor Chop House, just off London’s Strand, is a place where the newly installed wood panelling gives way to the original breeze blocks. This could be seen in one of two ways. It could be taken as a clever commentary on the way cities function; on how cultures merely build upon what has gone before, regardless of how ancient and venerable those cultures happen to be.

The chops have been rather politely trimmed down, reducing the chance to tear at bones with your teeth