Louie Louie, London: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

On the corner of a busy road in south London, Louie Louie is a decent café by day which really comes to life after dark

Louie Louie, 347 Walworth Road, London SE17 2AL (020 7450 3223). Full meal for two without wine £60- £80; with wine £100 - £120

There is nothing manicured about south London’s Walworth Road. To paraphrase Spike Milligan’s line about the Kilburn High Road it runs for a good few miles, which is why it’s so knackered by the time it gets there. The Walworth Road is a street where people buy real things they need. And there, on a corner opposite a branch of Iceland, is a café by day, restaurant by night, where they can get things they really should want.

Hummus is something I’ve always tolerated rather than loved, like Ed Sheeran. But this is verging on genius