Restaurants tacked on to hotel chains can be a mixed blessing, but this fishy Brighton diner is a great catch
The Salt Room, 106 King’s Road, Brighton BN1 2FU (01273 929 488). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £80-£130
The train pulls into Brighton at dusk, to a sky the colour of charcoal and a cruel wind rushing up the hill from the sea. The warm glow of cheap noodle shops down Queen’s Road and into West Street gives way to the darkness of the front, where the traffic thunders by and the last smudge of daylight leaks away into the water. It is brutal down here in the depths of winter. The light from within the Salt Room makes it look less like an invitation than a refuge.
The hot fish soup is poured over the top to meet the ingredients. It’s an awful lot of excitement for £7.50
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