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Bundobust, Manchester: restaurant review

Vibrant Indian food served with craft beer in a friendly communal space… Why has no one done this before?

Bundobust, 61 Piccadilly, Manchester M1 2AQ (0161 359 6757). Meal for two, including beer: £45(if you try hard)

It takes something special to stop me wanting to bang my head on the table repeatedly, while stabbing the business end of a fork into the soft part of my hand, every time I hear the term “restaurant concept”. Bundobust in Manchester is that something special. There’s no doubt the “c” word can be applied here. It is not a straightforward restaurant. It is clearly underpinned by a defining idea, which is: Indian street food and craft beers. But, by God, it works. It gives concepts a good name.

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