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Skosh, York: restaurant review | Jay Rayner

A restaurant that riffs brilliantly on the flavours of Japan and the Middle East… Better jump on board now

98 Micklegate, York YO1 6JX (01904 634 849). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £110

Let’s dispense with the preamble. Here’s what you need to know. You can get from London to York by train in 1 hour and 51 minutes. From Edinburgh, it’s 2 hours 24 minutes. From Birmingham, it’s 2 hours 9 minutes, from Liverpool 1 hour 54 minutes and from Manchester, a mere 1 hour and 14 minutes. All of these (and more) are entirely reasonable journey times to experience Neil Bentinck’s clever, delicious and often brilliant cooking at a price that won’t leave you feeling like you’ve been a willing accomplice in your own mugging.

Rampaging through the menu like an elephant on heat is going to prove a challenge

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