It’s a little star: excellent produce, beautifully cooked. There isn’t a duffer among our choices
I’m just off the plane from Lisbon when I find myself (with some difficulty: it’s hidden away in Bankside’s new Flat Iron Square complex) in Bar Douro. Portuguese is one of the most under-rated cuisines, dismissed by many as an endless array of stringy piri-piri chicken and salty, swampy stews reeking of too much coriander. But I’ve come back thrilled at the beauty of the city and starry-eyed about the food, head filled with vaguely erotic thoughts of oozing, whiffy cheeses and nutty, fat-marbled hams, of seafood, sweet and pristine, of alluring chips, yellow from their dip in seething, fragrant local olive oil.
Related: Popolo, London EC2: ‘I’d go back weekly if I could’ – restaurant review | Marina O’Loughlin
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