Yes it’s expensive and the wine list is far too long, but the reborn Bibendum is everything a great place should be
81 Fulham Road, Chelsea, London SW3 6RD (020 7581 5817). Meal for two, including wine and service: £180
The best restaurants have a special, unforced ingredient. At Bibendum, it’s the sunlight. On a clear spring day, the vaulting first floor space with its stained-glass window of the Michelin Man in shades of sapphire feels like a room where only good things happen. Grand restaurants are an encouragement to the grandiose, so let’s try some of that: without Bibendum, many of London’s great restaurants simply wouldn’t exist.
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