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A new book spills the beans on the professionals' favourite restaurants, from Edinburgh to St Ives
The days when it was fashionable for chefs to survive solely on a rock'n'roll diet of cigarettes, caffeine and adrenaline – think Marco Pierre White in his "White Heat" pomp – are gone. Today's toque stars are as opinionated about eating out as cooking so it makes sense to get their restaurant recommendations. The best chefs, like any professional critic, are putting their reputation on the line when they point you towards someone else's restaurant.
A degree of subjectivity comes into any restaurant recommendation and to temper that, never ask a chef (or anyone for that matter) for anything as nebulous their "favourite" restaurant. Instead, ask where you should go for specific things, be it breakfast, late night (still the chef's special, given their hours), somewhere cheap and cheerful, or a celebratory blowout. Don't make assumptions about where chefs eat on the basis of the food they serve at their restaurant. Show me someone who specialises in elaborate tasting menus in an opulent dining room and I'll show you a chef who unwinds with a simple meal in modest surroundings.
The Porthminster Cafe, St Ives porthminstercafe.co.uk
A seafood-focused menu, with Asian influences, built around the local catch. "Great food, child friendly and literally right on the beach. What more could you ask?" says Nathan Outlaw (Restaurant Nathan Outlaw and Seafood & Grill in Cornwall, and Outlaw's in London).
HK Diner, 22 Wardour Street, Chinatown, London
hkdiner.com
Small hours specialist, open until 4am, seven days a week. The vast menu includes Cantonese and Szechuan and many Chinese regions in between. "I always order from the shorter menu. I can't go without having the minced ground pork poached egg – it's addictive," says Jun Tunaka (Pearl, London).
The Boat House, 1a Seacliff Road, Bangor, Northern Ireland
theboathouseni.co.uk
A sophisticated approach to Ulster's finest produce with seafood and fish to the fore. "A great spot for lunch where the chefs provide a different approach to Northern Irish cuisine," says Niall McKenna (James Street South and The Bar & Grill in Belfast).
Modern Pantry, 48 St John's Square, London
themodernpantry.co.uk
Globetrotting fusion cooking from Canadian-born chef Anna Hansen. "Great breakfast. I love the grilled haloumi with spinach," says Angela Hartnett (Murano and the Whitechapel Gallery and Dining Room in London).
Bettys, 6-8 St Helen's Square, York, Yorkshire
bettys.co.uk
Flagship of famous Swiss-founded Yorkshire tea rooms "where the Dales meet the Alps": proper tea, cakes, pastries and savouries. "Worth the travel, a treat every time," says Paul Kitching (21212 in Edinburgh).
Robin's Pie & Mash, 17 Chapel Road, Ilford, Essex
robinspieandmash.com
Family owned for five generations, a classic pie & mash emporium, the likes of which are increasingly rare. "A local favourite. This place is so English – pie and mashed potatoes with stewed eels and liquor," says Alyn Williams (Alyn Williams at the Westbury in London).
The Dogs, 110 Hanover Street, Edinburgh
thedogsonline.co.uk
Great value bistro menu that accommodates local game and keeps vegetarians happy. "It's a brilliant place and fantastic value for money," says Tom Kitchin (The Kitchin and the Castle Terrace in Edinburgh).
The Shed, Llanrhian Road, Porthgain, Pembrokeshire
theshedporthgain.co.uk
A seafood fixated menu that makes the very best use of produce from the Pembrokeshire coast. "Situated in an old boat shed on the quay, this place serves top quality seafood," says Hywel Jones (The Park restaurant and Brasserie at Lucknam Park, Wiltshire).
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