Hauser & Wirth’s Somerset gallery looks amazing. The bonus is that the cooking is more than a match for the art
There are some restaurants which, given all the other things they have going for them, offer food that’s better than it needs to be. The view from Duck and Waffle on the 40th floor of London’s Heron Tower is so vast, and the sense of floating in a glass box above the quartz and steel city so engrossing, that the wit of Dan Doherty’s cooking merely feels like a bonus. A brown paper bag of his crispy pig’s ears and the opportunity to look down upon the rest of you, and my life is complete.
At Bob Bob Ricard in Soho they have a button to be pressed in case of champagne emergencies; ie when you’ve run out. Life should always come with a champagne button. They bring individual toasters to the table for breakfast and monogram the butter. The room looks like an Edwardian train carriage, an embarrassment of deep varnished wood, polished brass and ornate downlighter. The fact you can also eat really well here feels like overkill.
A whole plaice is grilled to that point where a knife slipped in will separate out the buttery fillets with a nudge
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