The Garden Café, London: 'A lovely new space' – restaurant review

Visitors to London’s Garden Museum will be impressed to see how its new café is bedding in

The Garden Café, The Garden Museum, Lambeth Palace Road, London SE1 7LB. (020 7401 8865). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £60-£90

Set into the polished concrete floor of the new café at London’s Garden Museum, hard by Lambeth Palace, is a gravestone. It records the fate of the various wives and daughters of one William Coward of Brixton Place in Lambeth. It includes his first wife Susanna, who died in October of 1798. It’s always good to have reading matter over lunch and here it is. I do so love a good gravestone – it’s the stuff of life and death, one chiselled letter at a time.

Deep, rust coloured oniony oil pools on the plate. It demands a moment’s bread dredging