Abandoning his usual well-planned ways, Jay takes a last-minute chance on dinner – and to his surprise hits the jackpot
Picture Fitzrovia, 110 Great Portland Street, London W1W 6PQ (020 7637 7892). Meal for two including drinks and service: £120
As a restaurant critic, my body is not entirely my own; I sacrifice it weekly in the service of your reading pleasure. And then, through either self-denial or ugly straining in the gym, I declare war on the calories I have just eaten in the restaurants I have just visited so you wouldn’t have to. But what can I do? I am cursed with the sluggish metabolism of a Mitteleuropean peasant designed, by natural selection, to get through a harsh winter on the Russian steppe. It just happens that this peasant has been misplaced to metropolitan London where the only hunger gap I will ever encounter is the one between breakfast and lunch. Such is my privileged life.
A narrow piece of cured then charred salmon is a sultry pink, like a flapper’s frock
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