Angkor Soul, Stockport: ‘It lives up to its name' | Jay Rayner

It’s a popular restaurant, a café and a record shop, too. But all that matters is the great Cambodian home cooking

Angkor Soul, 12 Stockport Road, Marple, Stockport SK6 6BJ (0161 222 0707). Lunch £30, dinner £60, both for two

Marple, just outside Stockport, is not the kind of town in which you would expect to find a restaurant like Angkor Soul. I suspect even its chef and founder, Y Sok, would agree. Like Seoul Kimchi a couple of weeks ago, it is the product of pure happenstance – in this case the accident of love. Indeed, think of this as a companion piece to the Seoul Kimchi review: they are both restaurants in the north of England, representing the best of their cultures in a sweetly understated way.

Summer rolls are soft pockets of loveliness which make you feel virtuous and clever for having decided to order them