Brilliant British food served in one of London’s grandest buildings… Lunch can be such joy
Rochelle Bar and Canteen at the ICA, the Mall, London SW1Y 5AH (020 7930 8619). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £90
While we are having lunch at the newly opened Rochelle Bar and Canteen inside the ICA on the Mall, two open horse-drawn carriages pass by outside. They are carrying the recently appointed ambassadors from Lithuania and Uganda who had been at the Palace presenting their credentials to the Queen. There are feathered caps and scarlet coats and flashes of polished gilding. Cue a few pithy musings on the clash of ancient and modern; on the contrast between the culinary modernism inside and the clip-clopping pomp and circumstance outside.
Braised oxtail with celeriac and pickled walnut mash is a swinger’s party for consenting ingredients
They could have called it a rabbit Wellington or a pig quiche or even a Watership Down royale for all I care
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