A new Bangkok café shows that Thai food can be whatever it wants to be
The Greyhound Café, 37 Berners Street, London W1T 3LZ (020 3026 3798). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £50 to £90
You probably think this restaurant reviewing lark is all truffles, Krug and duck fat, liberally smeared in crevices, as directed. And obviously there is a fair bit of that. We are consenting adults. But sometimes you have to fight for your lunch. One new restaurant phones to cancel my pseudonymous booking because, hilariously, they’ve forgotten it’s press night and they won’t be serving “ordinary” customers. OK. I won’t come then. We call another that I’ve finished writing about, to arrange photography. They tell us they’ve closed for refurbishment and will be reopening soon with a completely different menu. It’s a bullet dodged; I had to wash the blood off my hands after writing that review. No matter. I’ll get back to both of them eventually.
The deep seafood broth, bobbing with fat prawns and young vegetables, is both powerful and soothing
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