Is it sensational? Not quite, but it is very good. However, there are many other dishes to enjoy at this famed San Francisco restaurant
Zuni Café, 1658 Market Street, San Francisco (001 415 552 2522). Meal for two, including drinks, service and chicken $180 (£130)
How do you roast a chicken? Every meat eater has a method. Here’s mine. First I spatchcock the bird, by cutting down the backbone and opening it up so it looks like a huge albino toad. It roasts quicker that way, and where roast chicken is concerned quick is your friend. I smear it with olive oil, squeeze over the juice of a lemon, then season it with salt and pepper.
The skin is properly crisp. The meat is not at all dry and, praise be, it tastes of something
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