Opening a fully sustainable chippy could so easily come a cropper. But this place is spot on
United Chip, 5 Clerkenwell Road, London EC1M 5PE (020 7490 0069). Meal for two, excluding drinks: £25 (at most)
United Chip may be the bravest restaurant opening in years. Sure, you can open an izakaya or a ceviche place, something niche with a dreadful concept, and a few people will have an opinion on that. Some will consider themselves experts. But open a chippy? Suddenly, the ranks of those standing in judgment upon you will stretch away to the vanishing point, like the court in A Matter of Life and Death. (You haven’t seen it? You really must.) We all have an opinion on what makes a good chippy. We are all of us alert to pretentiousness or, worse still, to a belief that the wheel has been reinvented. The wheel is perfectly fine as it is, thanks.
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