A new Spanish restaurant that continues the fine tradition begun by the same team that set up Barrafina
Sabor has taken root on Heddon Street, W1. If you know London only as a tourist, however briefly, you’ll have been within a whisker of this spot where chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho and front-of-house José Etura’s new place now sits. Heddon Street is a back passage, a well-trampled crevice, off Regent Street, so it’s quite literally tourist central.
“We have walked the length and breadth of London,” my northern relatives will claim after an exhausting day out, and it will turn out later that they meandered all of 900 metres from Oxford Street to Piccadilly Circus. Sabor sits between those two points. A word to the wise: it’s within emergency vermouth-on-tap supping distance of the Build-a-Bear Workshop at Hamleys, with Yzaguirre Blanco at £5 a glass and prawn croquetas that are tiny portions of heaven. But whether or not passing trade, chancing on the place, will love it as London’s food scene already loves it is open to question. For Sabor comes wrapped in a backstory, while Barragán has been adored and respected for years by the capital’s chefs, diners and even nippy critics such as myself. The coming of Sabor is a big deal.
Related: Classic Spanish recipes from Nieves Barragán Mohacho
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