Set in a historic country house, Beaverbrook is a bastion of privilege – and glorious food
The Dining Room, Beaverbrook, Reigate Road, Surrey KT22 8QX (01372 571300). Meal for two, including drinks and service: £90-£150
This one is going to make some people cross. It doesn’t matter whether the restaurant is a triumph or a disaster; whether trumpets call or raspberries are blown. (Spoiler alert: it’s mostly trumpets.) There are people who will be furious with me for even being here. I think about this as I work my way through the glorious vegetable tempura, a golden confection of crisp filigree and lace. I sigh and press on. I have crispy deep-fried things to eat. I am but a man with appetites. I’ll just have to suck it up.
Folds of toasted nori are filled with a tartare of tuna and topped with a tiny bright green spherification of wasabi
A beautiful basil sorbet under a lemonade foam that fizzed and sparkled and made me want a bucketful
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